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Recollections of Barwick-in-Elmet


by William Prince
Barwicker No. 11
Sept. 1988


Living in Wales amongst the Celts since 1976 and sometimes speaking to the "locals" in their own language, has served to heighten my consciousness that I am very much a Yorkshire Anglo-Saxon. The Yorkshire Poll Tax of 1379 recorded Willelmis Prince and, more specifically, there was christened "Thomas, the sonne of William Prince of Barwick, on 12 August 1632".

My paternal grandmother, Emma Flowett, was born at the "William IV" public house which used to stand opposite the Old Pump Yard, by Aberford Road, in 1843. On her marriage to William Prince, on St. Valentine's Day, 1866, she left Barwick and moved to the Kippax cum Allerton area where she bore ten children of whom my father, Arthur Prince, was number eight. She died at Owlwood Farm, on the edge of Kippax Park, where she 'lived for about 30 years, at the age of 87. My father died in 1966 in his eighty- second year and lies in Barwick churchyard.

We left Owlwood Farm, where I was born in 1916, and moved to Church House Farm, Barwick, in March 1930. Moving a farming business in those days of horse transport was a vastly different operation from what it would' be today and one part of it still remains clearly in my mind. Father had to take a herd of bullocks to our new address and he gave the job to me and my younger brothers. I was barely 14, Colin 12 and Robin 10 when we drove the animals to their new home. The route via Brigshaw, Kippax and Garforth was about 10 miles but, with the frequent diversions into the open gateways, yards, fields and other enclosures we must have traversed much more than that. Anyone who has driven cattle over strange roads will understand the difficulties. All stock arrived safely and the only thing we suffered was fatigue.

My new headmaster, Mr Gilbert Ashworth, immediately took an interest in my artistic work and, at his instigation, I did some paintings which were hung in the school. My former headmaster, Mr R.W.Veitch, of Garforth, had inspired me to submit a poster for a competition which was organised for all the schools of the West Riding of Yorkshire and I won the second prize. The certificate dated 1929 and the prize, which is a book, are still with me Later I was awarded a "Technical Exhibition Scholarship· to attend evening classes at Leeds Collage of Art and, to obtain my travel expenses, I had to save every bus ticket for the journey which had, for reasons of economy, to be taken on the "Yellow Bus Company" with a change at Garforth. That was four bus rides to every class. The drawing board which was bought for me in Briggate, Leeds, and taken to all my evening classes, I am still using. It is the best board I have and cost 5/-(25p>. I liked Barwick school and quickly settled. We played cricket in the playground with stumps chalked on a wall. In that summer I remember playing against Aberford School in a field of Kr S. Walker at Leyfield Farm, whose son, "Kickey", was our opponents' demon bowler. As I recall, there was more danger in the pitch than from the bowler!

I was one of the three Senior Members of the school who comprised Standard VIII. The other two were Peggy Cooper, who lived next door to Hewitts the butchers in Main Street, and Billy Green, a farmer's son from Potterton. Peggy, with her long, golden hair, was the prettiest girl in the school.

Another event in the spring of 1930 was the wedding of Gwendolyn Sowry, daughter of J.P.Sowry, Esq., of "The Limes", Potterton Lane, and James Longley. Mr Sowry owned a printing company in Leeds and Mr Longley was the son of the family who owned the bedding company of the same name. That was a popular event with the children because the school had a day off to attend the wedding.

We were not invited guests at the church, nor did we partake of anything at the reception, but we had a very important part to play in the ceremony. The school was the choir which sang "Hail happy day, cheerful and bright etc.", a somewhat modified version of "Here comes the bride". Mr Ashworth explained how he had amended the line "gifts from our hands", to "gifts in her hands", because we were not giving the bride anything. Such cosy little manipulations of the education system were typical examples of what happened in those days of "high patronage". Whether the choir idea came first from the Headmaster or the Rector I never knew but, it must be said, Mr Ashworth organized it splendidly. As was the custom in those days, to welcome a newcomer, other farmers in the Village gave father one day's service of a man and a pair of horses. The work was not necessarily done on the same day. I wonder if that welcoming, generous custom is still carried on.

For many months in our first year the farm was occupied daily by the workmen of William Hartley, the local builder, and Mr Stirk, the joiner, who was employed by Henry Pullan and Sons, who owned the saw-mills down Potterton Lane. I remember Hartley himself, the builder, who only came to instruct and supervise. He always wore a felt hat with the brim up at the back, almost as if he had slept in it, and an almost constant cigarette drooping from his mouth. To me, a fourteen year-old, Geoff Hartley, the son, looked much too young and good looking to be a brick-layer. Sam, the other brick- layer, who came from Seacroft, was jovial, baldish, rubicund and looked old enough to be Geoff's grandfather. He told lots of tales about his working life and frequently referred to someone - who was unknown to the rest - called Spike Robson. Apparently Spike had "wise sayings" for various intervals of time during the working day. When he heard the clock bell, chime at the starting hour he used to say "Oh, thou wroughting cow!" But when it struck for the cessation of work it was "Bless thy iron tongue!" They all had to rely on Fred Scargill who carried the bricks, dug out the excavations and other "donkey" work, and mixed the concrete - by hand.

I learned a lot by watching the workmen, particularly Mr Stirk from the sawmills, who fitted new stalls, mangers and hayracks in the stable and mistal. I suppose no one in Barwick uses the word "mistal" nowadays or, for that matter "byre" and "shippon" for a cow-house. Having taken woodwork at my previous school, on strictly "purist" lines, I was also rather shocked to see the plain saw-and-nail methods used in building joinery. The family was "mildly" horrified to find the house infested with cockroaches, commonly known as "black-clocks", but they were finally exterminated when the builders' improvements were complete. I believe Bob Hewitt's father, Walter, also did some of the internal work in the house.

I have pleasant memories of the old house with its little cobbled, quadrant-shaped yard before the back door, the porch where farming boots came off and the huge Jargonelle pear tree which covered the gable end. In that little yard was the wash-house which also accommodated our first water closet. We had not lived near main sewers before so had been used to the old "night-soil" closets.

Our nearest neighbours lived in three cottages on the corner of Potterton Lane opposite the church. Next to the farmyard in the brick cottage, which has been re-furbished and improved, lived Walter and Lavinia Lovett and their four children. Their rent was 2/6d. per week in 1930. The other two cottages were of stone and probably the lowest, in height, of any two-storeyed dwellings in the area. When I was 15, I could touch their ceilings with ease. In the centre one lived John and Emma Walton and their children Arthur, Richard, Harry and Mary. Their rent was, I believe, 1/9d per week. The other stone cottage, on the corner, was occupied by Mr and Mrs Wi1son, their daughter Florence and her husband Sidney Lonsdale and their small son.




Those two stone cottages were of the kind one sees in the pictures of Myles Birket Foster, tiny-windowed, low-eaved and highly white-washed. In the early summer, their low front garden walls were smothered in the blossoms of "snow-in-summer" (Cerastium tomentosum) and, on baking days, Mrs Walton would stand, on their edges against the cottage wall on a little ledge of flagstones, her oven-cakes to cool. And how lovely was the taste of a freshly baked oven-cake, made of a bread mix, rolled out, to end as a round of 10 to 12 inches diameter and 1½ inches thick.

John Walton - always called "Johnnie" - was a typical handy countryman who could do anything around a farm. Father always employed him to thatch our hay and corn stacks. From time to time we noted, in our hedge-rows, sturdy briar stocks onto which had been grafted garden roses. Johnnie had done them as one of his hobbies. He was also very skilled at "rabbiting".

Those lady neighbours of ours were frequent visitors to the house, often to buy skimmed milk which was a very important item in the diet of the 1930's. The eldest of the Lovett daughters, Norah, I always remembered because of her very unusual middle name, "Louvaine". She was so named after Louvain, one of the battle- grounds of the 1914-18 war. The one who comes first to mind, however, is Mrs "Florr1e" Lonsdale with whom I still have a tangible link. She used to run a mail-order agency for Great Universal Stores and, through her, for sixpence a week, I bought my first set of woodworking tools. Never was money so well spent! Since those days my collection of tools has multiplied but I still have, in their original chest, all but two of those tools, from G.U.S. They were made in Sheffield!

One has often heard reference to the 1930's or, "before the war", with the inference that things were cheaper than they are today. "You could see a show at the Leeds Empire and have a meal for a bob!" Yes, indeed, but that has to be seen in conjunction with the wages of the time. My chest of tools cost £1.0.0. but that was more than half of the weekly wage paid to many a worker with a family in 1930.

I still have my mother's account book for the sale of eggs and butter delivered to the customer. In the winter of 1929-30 eggs went up to 2/9d. per dozen which made our traditional English breakfast almost a luxury meal for the average family. In the summer the price was down to 1/- but the fact remains that eggs today are enormously cheaper than ever before. Of course, there was none of the nonsense of paying more for brown eggs than white.

I cannot think of one thing which is, relative to the cost of living, more expensive than it was before the war. In fact the case is to the contrary. For today's average weekly wage one can buy 200 dozen grade I eggs; in 1939 probably it was no more than 40 dozen. After school hours we three younger members of the family had to deliver milk to local customers and this was done individually, in pint or quart cans which had lids and carrying handles. The traditional oval-shaped milkman's four gallon can, with its gill and pint ladles, was too heavy for us. After the milk was delivered we had to wash all the dairy equipment with water heated on the kitchen range. How well I remember that stone sink resting on brick pillars in the large flag-paved kitchen.

Some of our customers were on the outer-most parts of the village and we had many a "lark" coming back from them. Returning from "Fieldhead Poultry Farm", Aberford Road, one dark and windy evening, my brother Colin, who was about 12 at the time, suddenly produced a packet of "Woodbine" cigarettes and we spent a long time, and the expenditure of many matches, trying to get "a light" as we crouched under the hedge.

We liked Mr and Mrs Stone who kept the beautiful Rhode Island Red poultry and a few Large Black pigs. They created the name "Fieldhead" which has been given to "The Drive". If I lived on that lane I would much prefer that the old "Shoulder o' Mutton Lane" had been kept instead of the pretentious "Fieldhead Drive". But I don't suppose that any true Barwicker had any say in the matter.

Some of my most pleasant memories are of the times on horseback when I rode as much as possible. It was often a pleasant way of doing a job, driving the cattle to-and-from the pastures by the Potterton Beck riding bare-back, or even on a domestic errand, for mother, to Mrs Bramley's little shop at 56 Main Street. We had a lovely bay mare whose only name became "Maggie"s Foal" and she and I were great friends. Maggie, her mother, was a Canadian mare who was a cavalry mount in the 1914-18 war and later gave long and faithful service in the shafts of our family milk float. Maggie had been trained as a "pacer", a kind of horse one never sees today. We also "boarded" a pony for the Sowrys whose grandson and friends used to ride with saddles. None of them would accept my challenge to ride around the field "bronco style", without saddle or bridle, as I often did.

WILLIAM PRINCE


This is the first of a series of articles by the author on the Barwick of the nineteen thirties - Barwick at home, at work and at play. He has lived away from the village for the past 43 years,