One of the many treasures possessed by Barwick church is a copy of 'Ducatis Leodensis', written by Ralph Thoresby (1658-1725) and published in 1715. This monumental work by the first historian and topographer of Leeds is a study of the city and and adjacent townships in the early 18th. century West Riding. The Rector, Jacobi Edgcumbe, gave the volume to All Saints' Church in 1749.
This book is an amazing library of information; it includes a full catalogue of Thoresby's museum and manuscripts, editions of the bible and 'of books published in the infancy of the art of printing'. Additionally there is a reference to the 'pedigrees of the nobility and gentry'; and a collection of 'curiosities, natural and artificial'.
In the Preface, Thoresby refers to Leeds and his 'innate affection to the place of my nativity', writing that, 'this town was of great antiquity, being expressly mentioned by Venerable Bede, who flourished near a thousand years ago'. As a schoolboy Thoresby was inspired by, 'our learned vicar Mr Milner, in a sermon upon a public occasion, to devote his energies to the study of the topograpy of the Leeds area and its antiquities'. The foundation of the Thoresby Society in Leeds in 1889 has preserved his name and collection.
The vast scope of the 628 pages in this work gives a unique insight into the state and condition of Leeds and surrounding areas in the early 18th. century. All the local villages are mentioned; most have now been assimilated into the modern conurbation. It is the modest intention of this short article to refer to what Thoresby wrote about Barwick-in-Elmet.
Having completed the topography of Leeds, Thoresby turned his attention to 'the territory about it, called Elmet, or the Regio Loidis, which seems to have been in those ages of equal extent'. He confessed having trouble fixing the boundaries of the area so he confined himself to four places, Barwick-in-Elmet, Ledsham, Ledston and Sherburn-in-Elmet.
This area received its name from the great woods of elm, 'that then and many ages after abounded here'. He emphasised the importance and influence of elm trees in the area.
'The elm was in so high reputation amongst the ancients, that it was sometimes carried in the most solemn triumph; and our Saxon ancestors particularly were such admirers of well spread trees, that they worshipped them'.
By Thoresby's time some of the largest and most valuable elms had been cut down but they 'were remaining in the memory of our fathers', yet it was the large number, rather than the bulk of the trees which were plentiful. He also referred to place names such as Elmhirst (a small grove of elms) and the family name Elmham.
The Romans pioneered the use of lime and built lime kilns locally. As the 18th. century Agricultural Revolution developed, lime was increasingly used. 'Elmet abounds in limestone, which being burned at Brotherton . . . . is conveyed in great quantities to Wakefield, Sandal, etc.' Limestone also came to Seacroft.
In Anglo-Saxon times, Barwick was known as the 'granary of Northumberland', because of the fertility of the soil and the excellence of its barley and wheat. It was a rich and politically influential area. Thoresby comments that manor houses 'are in these northern parts frequently called Halls, and here is a remarkable mount called Hall Tower Hill'. He records in detail the dimensions of the trench, adding 'let the botanists take notice of the Blew Columbines and other rare plants that grow here wild'.
Returning from York on one occasion, he was looking for the Roman way from Bramham Moor to Barwick,'where I found on the north side of the town a considerable Aggar, which is very high and steep on both sides I have traversed about three hundred paces upon the height of it but then found obstruction that I could not easily surmount in my boots. This high bank which is somewhat circular, and winding to the Hall Tower Hill, is called Wendel-hill'.
At this point Thoresby considers the origin of the name 'Wendel, writing that it may be Saxon.
One of the intriguing facts about this volume is that past rectors of Barwick have carefully annotated it and a spidery inked footnote directs the reader to page 589 of the Appendix. It is fascinating to consider which rector considered that future readers might wish to question the origin of the name Wendel Hill.
'The fortification at Barwick, called Wendall-hill, may perhaps claim a greater Antiquity, as being made by the Vandalls, who invaded Gaul were by Probus sent to inhabit this Country, and might be desirous to leave their Name at the Place of their Settlement, that the Romans pronounced V as we do W hath been before observed, so that Vandall is easily converted into Wendall-hill.'
At this point Thoresby develops the argument about other places with Roman links.
'Almonbury seems much more probably to be deduced from the Almanes (who were Auxiliaries to the Romans) than from St Alban.' He continues to quote opinion that 'Mexborough, Bamburgh, Deusburgh, etc. received their Names from other Auxiliaries, the 6th. Legion having many camps in these parts.
It is interesting to reflect, that our place names stretch back into antiquity, being influenced even today by the way the Romans pronounced their V's and W's. The 6th.Legion certainly had a considerable influence on the formation and development of early Yorkshire settlements.
In the narrative, Thoresby goes on to give a detailed description of Barwick church, commenting that most of the stained glass, 'is now defaced'. He deduces from the inscription under the statue of the benefactor, Henry Vavasour, that the steeple was evidently 'built in the reign of Henry V1'. It is interesting to note that the church tower was probably newly built at the time of the Battle of Towton in 1461.
In the 18th. century, absentee clergymen often drew their stipends but neglected their parishes, sometimes paying a curate to say the offices. Thoresby felt strongly about clergy neglecting their duties, but he was pleased to record the fact that the newly appointed 'Reverend and ingenious Mr George Plaxton' (rector 1703-1720) was conscientious.
He was 'Rector of Barwick, and what is too rare, resident there, being the first that has been so for ages'. Parishioners were happy with the Reverend Plaxton's preaching, weekday prayers and monthly communions.
Thoresby's remarkable volume continues to make astonishing comments about his life and times as he casts a lively and critical eye over his society. We are fortunate to have his unique observations to give such a rich insight into the 17th. and 18th. centuries.
* Agger; an earthwork, a mound, a raised work.